![]() In fact, just a few weeks ago I used some Kotton Klenser on an M1 stock. No linseed oil, no cleaners, no lemon oil, no chemicals. that the best thing to do to any stock is NOTHING. The linseed oil will darken it a little more and will dry to a shinier appearance, but they both are both oils and are absorbed by the wood.Īnyway, I don't want to get on a rant here, but the moral of the story is, to me. Neither would be make a difference on a dark milsurp stock, but it can be seen on light wood. Get a piece of very light colored unfinished wood and rub some linseed oil on one part of it and then lemon oil right beside it. So, they take a clear oil that would not darken the wood and then add a coloring so that it does basically become a light stain. As I understand it, the commercial lemon oils are a mineral oil with lemon scent. I was thinking, "Sure, its is probably 10wt motor oil or something with some fake lemon scent added." Apparently, that is not far from the truth. When I bought my first lemon oil and read the Old English bottle, where it says "contains petroleum distillates greater than 10%", it got an eye roll. linseed oil being an alteration.īut I stopped using it anyway just because I figure that there are people who know more that I do about collecting and that if anybody thinks it is bad, then its better to be safe than sorry. I still have mixed feelings of my own about whether or not I really think it is OK vs. Joining this board opened my eyes to the lemon oil, which is accepted. I never did any sanding, dishwashing or any such crazy stunts, but it never occurred to me in a million years that even the tickiest old bastard of a purist would have a problem with linseed oil on a stock originally finished with it. I have to admit that, in the past, I used linseed oil on some Garand stocks. The more I think about it, the more I am becoming an advocate of doing nothing at all.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |